Slightly wild Eastern block backwater meets proud and ancient cradle of Slavonic civilisation. Factor in the dynamic modern aspects of the city, such as the explosive politics, cutthroat commerce and the scintillating nightlife and all in all you’re in for a bit of a ride.

Although there is a gay scene in Kiev and President Yushenko has made some positive pro-gay noises, outside the capital – or other big cities like Odessa in the south – people are more conservative, and can be openly homophobic. There are no plans to introduce civil unions or other equality measures.

The main gay hub – night in, night out – is Kiber a bar-eatery-club combo, just off the main Indi Square. You cannot help but be swept along by the nightly drag and cabaret acts, whatever the hell it is they’re saying. Caution: foreigners whiff of cash, so expect to be surrounded by local rent on entry.

Kiev’s main gay club Androgin is about a 10-minute cab ride west of Indi Square. Local lads (thankfully minus the rent) flock here in droves, all weekend-long, to bop to the latest sounds in a state of the art space, dominated by massive plasma screens awash with digital, psychedelic art. Muscle boys fill podiums; the loos have leather sofas; and the dark room is vast and brimming with luscious talent.

Although Kiev’s gay sauna is closed, you’ll enjoy a uniquely homoerotic experience at any of the cities traditional all male, clothes-free bath houses, or “banyas”. All pretty macho; so do be discrete if you make any passes!